Far into the reaches of New Hampshire’s “north country,” 60 miles south of the Canada border and perched above the Ammonoosuc River, is the bustling town of Littleton. An easy 2.5 hours from Boston, the drive north into the White Mountains via Interstate 93 is reward enough for venturing to this gem of a small town. En route, you’ll wind through Franconia Notch, a stunning glacial pass and home to numerous natural attractions, including Flume Gorge, countless hiking trails, Echo Lake, Cannon Mountain Ski Area, and the peak that is the former site of the Old Man of the Mountain—which sadly collapsed in 2003. If you don’t have the time or interest in lacing up your hiking boots, no worries—the view from the Franconia Notch Parkway (the eponymous 8 mi. stretch of I-93) along the banks of the Pemigewasset River is arguably one of the best in the Northeast.
This upland town attracts numerous residents who own weekend and/or vacation homes in Littleton or nearby communities such as Bethlehem, and it is easy to understand why. Not only is it within easy striking distance of Boston, but it is the same 2.5 hour commute from Portland, ME and a mere 1.5 hours from Manchester, NH. Surprisingly, while real estate prices just a bit further south in the Lakes Region continue to climb, you can still find very reasonably priced properties in the Littleton area that would make ideal mountain getaways. And for those of you considering boarding school for your children, New Hampshire is home to numerous, well-respected options, including Holderness School, whose campus is just a 40 min drive south of town. A little weekend home would create a nice opportunity to see more of your kiddos (and their friends!) on long weekends and vacations. I still wish we had been able to make that happen when ours were in boarding school!
For adventurers simply planning a day trip, if you time your drive wisely, you can start with brunch at the Littleton Diner. A classic 1940’s Sterling Streamliner-style diner with porcelain-enamelled walls and a barrelled ceiling that serves spectacular corned beef hash and is a storied stop during New Hampshire’s political campaign season. The diner is situated on the northern end of Main Street and is the perfect place to begin your stroll through town.
Along Main Street, there is an eclectic mix of shops, eateries, and businesses. A beautifully stocked bookstore with an infectiously cheery atmosphere; I scooped up an old-school Atlas to help guide more journeys with less reliance on screens (Waze simply doesn’t understand my love of back roads). This great spot, The Little Village Toy & Book Shop, is also an appropriate nod to one of Littleton’s most famous authors, Elenor H. Porter, who wrote the beloved 1913 children’s novel, “Pollyanna”. The historic library across the street features a bronze statue of the optimistic little character on its front lawn, and the colorful walkway leading to the riverside also bears her name. Even the town’s motto “Be Glad” is evidence of the community’s profound pride in the connection.
There are numerous antique stores (set aside extra time for the spectacular Revive 365) and a classic two-screen movie theatre playing recent releases—how many American small towns are still this lucky? There’s a sprawling candy shop that I somehow managed not to patronize, which is a feat given my weakness for penny candy. And lots of fun boutiques. Two of the notable standouts for me were Interiors Green and Bella Funk. The former is a beautifully merchandised shop that includes wooden bowls, baskets, candles, linens, and an impressive array of laundering accessories that could make any chore day less work. The latter is oddly what drew me to Littleton in the first place. Bella Funk is a familiar stop on my trips to Portland, ME, and I hadn’t realized the business got its start with their NH location! Founded in 2006 by two local sisters with the perfect combination of great style and ambitious vision, their original women’s boutique occupies a great-looking space in the middle of town. Fun curated styles from brands such as Paige, Mother, Farm Rio, Z Supply, and Frye as well as jewelry, home decor, beauty products, candles, and—much to the delight of my college-bound daughter—Kai perfume! So bring a big shopping bag.
Closer to the river is another smattering of shops along what they call the Riverwalk, in addition to the very attractive Schilling Beer Co. With a large outdoor beer garden, store, tasting room, brewery pub, and kitchen, their “campus” is itself worthy of a road trip. I’m admittedly not a beer aficionado and was flying solo on this excursion, so I’m saving it for my next visit. The hubs loves all things brewing, and we’re already talking about a ski weekend this winter that will invariably end up in front of the fire sipping pints in their Pub. Plus the description of their most iconic beer— Alexandr, a Czech-style pilsner—has me suspecting I’ll break my own no-beer policy and return south, growler in hand.
Plus we need to return to try Tall Provisions for dinner. Their menu is inspired, and any restaurant that hosts a Friday “social hour” from 4-6 pm is a business I want to support! I think that’s a fantastic idea and a great way to meet people. Plus, you can stick around for a dinner that includes warm milk bread, aged cheddar cheese puffs, grilled Vermont skirt steak, or roasted Maine pollock….so why rush home?
If you plan to spend the night, the Thayers Inn—the oldest continuously operating hotel in the White Mountains—is located directly in the heart of town. The historic Rabbit Hill Inn (which I suspect is a bit more our speed) is also nearby in Vermont; I’d say approximately 15 min from Littleton. Take note no children are permitted on the property. There is a well-regarded restaurant on-site in addition to the Snooty Fox Pub, which is open seven days a week. The buildings are classic New England; the decor is antique and as charming as Vermont itself. I also understand most private rooms feature working fireplaces and public cell phone use is discouraged, a policy I think increasing numbers of us find a relief!
The town of Bethlehem is about a 6-minute drive from Littleton and a spot to also keep an eye on if you’re interested in property. I had a fun chat with the owner of the fabulous home goods and gift shop called Brown Paper Packages. Brilliantly showcasing the work of small makers and crafters, it smells amazing inside, is perfectly curated and bright—as sincerely cheerful as the owners. It is evident that they love their community and had fun telling me about The Colonial, a small theatre and performance venue across the street, The Place Above the Notch coffee roaster a few shops away, which was unfortunately closed on the day of my visit, and about the Rek’-Lis Brewing Company toward the end of the main drag. They generously gave credit to the brewery’s founders for their enthusiastic support of Bethlehem’s revitalization. I popped in there next to buy an assorted 4-pack for the hubs who was back home missing out on this adventure. I was still stuffed from brunch so couldn’t hit the restaurant but the food smelled absolutely amazing and it boasts two incredibly attractive outdoor seating spaces, one at the Pub in the back of the property and the other along the main street under the trees.
I’m not much of an ice cream junkie, but I made an exception for my final stop in Bethlehem. Super Secret Ice Cream is no longer a secret—although it is indeed still super! Churned on-site, this James Beard Award-winning creamery was founded by Kristina Zontini as a creative outlet. She began experimenting with creative flavor combinations, and as the batches began to accumulate in her freezer, she turned an old ski-tuning shack into a word-of-mouth takeout spot where in-the-know customers could pop by for some of her unique creations. Now the well-known spot (today owned by long-time employee Aleks) draws customers from afar for good reason. I splurged on a huge single scoop of Wild Timur Pepper ice cream, which combines their sweet cream ice cream with bits of grapefruity, tingly Nepalese pepper berries picked wild from trees in the Himalayas. And holy cow, was I impressed! It was absolutely delicious and refreshing. I seriously NEVER buy ice cream, yet I’m already looking forward to my next stop and a scoop of their Blueberry Basil….or
If you’re interested in what the real estate market has to offer in the area, Badger Peabody & Smith Realty (an affiliate of Sotheby’s International Realty) at the time of this article had several absolutely stunning properties listed. I visited in the summer, but suspect the region is even more lively in the fall. And during the winter, Cannon Mountain offers formidable alpine ski terrain along with their neighbor to the east, Bretton Woods, which not only features alpine slopes but also an impressive Nordic ski center. So fire up the 4-wheel drive and don’t be intimidated by the well-maintained I-93 trek in the winter.
And last but certainly not least, the fly fishing in the northern reaches of New Hampshire is exceptional. The Connecticut River is home to native brookies, browns, and rainbow trout as well as landlocked salmon. For those craving a more technically advanced day on the river, there are even two unstocked 3 mi. stretches of water that provide catch-and-release fly-fishing in habitat perfect for wild spawning. And you’ll have no difficulty finding a reputable guide, if you wish. The hubs and our son enjoyed a day-long float along the Androscoggin River several years ago, and although it wasn’t the most productive day on the books, they cherished every second together. Which is really what the lifestyle and great adventures we profile at Upland Weekends are all about.
